By Beatriz O'Brien
It is not known exactly when humans domesticated the flaxseed plant. By domestication, we mean leaving behind its wild ancestor and beginning to cultivate it for various textile purposes. Initially, flaxseed, the tall herb we later came to know as linen, was harvested for food, specifically for the high nutritional value of the oil in its seeds.
In 2009, in the Dzudzuana Cave, located in what is now Georgia, a group of archaeologists discovered the oldest textile fibers woven by humans. These fibers may have been made some 30,000 years ago. While the earliest techniques were basketry, in which fibers were twisted, interlaced, and knotted, this early technology extended over the centuries to other items such as fishing nets and cargo lashing, which made it possible to optimize long-distance travel.
Linen belongs to the family of stem fibers, along with hemp, jute, and ramie. The fibers can measure between 45 centimeters and 1 meter. It is a fiber with low elasticity, but soft to the touch. Linen fabric performs extremely well in hot climates due to its high moisture absorption rate. In terms of wear, linen fabrics become softer with age.
Linen was a divine element in Egyptian civilization. In the mummification process, understood as preparation for the afterlife, bodies were wrapped in linen bandages that symbolized the state of purity necessary for their transition. The priests meticulously handled the fabric, producing extremely delicate, complex, and immaculate results.
On the banks of the Nile, the Egyptians understood the benefits of flax cultivation in their climate. Its production spread across all social classes and was used as a commodity with high commercial and social value. Egypt's importance in the handling of flax was such that they remained the most important producer of this fiber from ancient times until the 19th century, when Europeans began to cultivate it industrially.
Linen weaving maintained its importance throughout the ancient world, through the Middle Ages, and in subsequent centuries. In Europe, along with wool, linen was the most processed and used fiber until well into the 20th century. Belgium was famous for the quality of these textiles, and around 1800, the Irish were producing and exporting world-renowned linen fabrics.
The first step involves harvesting the flaxseed from the root. This maximizes the use of the fiber from the entire stalk. The fiber is then left to dry. Next, retting occurs, which involves soaking or fermenting the fibers, where bacteria destroy the spongy part of the stalk, stripping the fibers. To achieve this, the plants must be soaked for a specific amount of time to achieve optimal results, without causing them to completely disintegrate. This stage of the process produces a characteristic "rotten" odor that is strong and unpleasant. Once the plant is removed from the water, it is allowed to dry again to remove the bark. Finally, comes the process known as sowing, in which the flax is beaten and combed to leave only the longest fibers ready for spinning and, ultimately, weaving.
Linen has been cultivated in Chile since colonial times. Initially, as an artisanal product, and then industrially, beginning in the 20th century. Linens from La Unión will always be remembered for its quality. Linen was one of the favorite textiles in Chilean homes because it is durable and provides warm tones. We speak in the past tense because, today, linen, like most natural fibers except cotton, is rarely used and is considered a luxury fiber.
Located in the Los Ríos region, the city of La Unión was, for nearly seven decades, the manufacturing epicenter of a local textile economy. Flax was grown in the area through a system known as "seed loans," in which the factory delivered the seeds to farmers, who then grew, harvested, and dried the plant to take it to various collection centers. The tow was fermented and waxed before being sent to the city to be spun and woven. An entire local economic system, what today might be called "from the field to your clothes ," occurred within the same territory, in the hands of farmers and workers.
How sustainable is linen?
Let's start by saying that linen is of plant origin. The environmental impact of natural fibers is greater than that of chemical or human-made fibers during the production process, especially in cultivation, which requires water and land. However, it is a plant that does not require large amounts of water, pesticides, or specific soils to grow. It also does not require dyeing; its natural color is widely accepted due to the association of linen with light brown tones, from ivory to greener hues. One of its main characteristics is that it is extremely durable. It withstands sun exposure very well, making it suitable for use in awnings and curtains.
Linen is a biodegradable and hypoallergenic fiber. Today, a luxury enjoyed by few, linen was once used by peasants and pharaohs alike. The introduction and widespread use of synthetic fibers in the textile industry beginning in the 1940s gradually left this beautiful fiber, along with all other natural fibers except cotton, in obscurity. Unlike synthetics, the use and disposal phase of natural fibers can achieve a low impact. Much of this difference depends on the care we give our garments and how we make them last as long as possible.