By Luis Miranda
Is a degree necessary to work in fashion? Gabrielle Chanel never attended higher education; she acquired her sewing skills at the orphanage where she spent her childhood. Karl Lagerfeld, her successor at the helm of the brand, didn't learn the trade in the classroom either; he learned by doing and directly from the master Balmain, under whom he was both an assistant and apprentice. Miuccia Prada is a political scientist by profession. All three share the distinction of being among the most prominent costume designers of the 20th century and having led fashion empires whose influence extends globally. Locally, Paulo Méndez , one of Chile's finest costume design talents, never completed his design studies.
It might seem like this question is answered quickly and negatively after that initial paragraph, but the truth is, it's an open-ended question. The Chilean labor market remains conservative, and job postings typically require a degree to be considered for application. And in those positions that don't require one, the opportunities for applicants with a degree are significantly better than those without, in a context where recruiters often don't have the opportunity to learn about an applicant's skills beyond what they read on their CV. From this initial question, several other questions arise for those analyzing their future career and university careers, such as what to look for when choosing where to study, or the aspects that an academic program must address. At Vístete Local, we aim to help you with this article, which analyzes the different facets of an educational system that, like Chilean fashion, is in a constant process of maturation and search.
The first time I was involved in an academic activity related to fashion was at the now-defunct Universidad del Pacífico, long a haven for those wanting to study costume design in Santiago. A marketing professor invited me to teach a class on fashion communication to the students. At the time, I was a content editor and public relations officer for VisteLaCalle, and my experience working in the field seemed relevant to the professor. The invitation began to be repeated frequently, and in the process, I realized one of the shortcomings of fashion schools at that time, which unfortunately remains a minority today: a disconnect between academia and current fashion work. Students complained about their schools' limited connection to what was happening in local fashion, the few bridges between theory and practice, and their lack of immersion in an industry that thrives on practice, innovation, and effective networking. This is a fundamental first step when choosing where to study fashion, regardless of the specific degree you choose. The place where you complete your fashion studies must be an institution connected to the industry or field where you intend to find employment. Without these connections, which can take the form of research activities, periodic training sessions, an educational model focused on practice, and professors with significant ties to the field, the learning process will be dry and slow, and your job prospects will be difficult.
We can learn more lessons from another defunct costume design school. What are mistakes for, if not to learn from them, right? The Costume Design School at the University of Las Americas stood out as soon as it opened. The educational project placed a strong emphasis on creativity and connecting its students with the environment. It was the antithesis of what had been seen and done in fashion education. The UDLA costume design school exploded. The school's activities began to gain notoriety, and its most outstanding students began to win international competitions, create designs of boundless creativity, and become known as up-and-coming local designers. Despite becoming one of its most visible schools, the UDLA decided to close the program. I was invited several times to evaluate students in various academic activities and noticed that, although several of them were creative and eager to give their all, there was a shortcoming in the school that prevented them from taking off as they had hoped: business training . Another issue to consider when choosing where to study. In an extremely competitive job market, where recent graduates must be able to do several things, business training is a real handicap that can determine a job application. For a costume designer, it's necessary to have the technical knowledge of sewing, but also knowledge of fashion marketing, communications, and business. Ultimately, these are absolutely necessary tools for anyone who wants to start their own brand. Stay away from any institution that doesn't provide you with the tools in this regard, and opt for those that emphasize developing these skills.
From long-gone projects, we move on to one that's in full development and seems promising. A few years ago, I was invited to be a judge for an activation between the Faculty of Design at the Universidad del Desarrollo and a Belgian handbag brand with a presence in Chile. I was surprised that students from the graphic design major, a predominantly 2D design field, were so accomplished at reinventing handbags, banana bags, and backpacks. I was pleasantly impressed with the quality of the work, and it was very difficult to choose a winner. A couple of years ago, this Faculty decided to open its Fashion and Management major, in a program that requires all design students to take a core of common courses before entering the specialization. In charge of this school and leading the project is designer Natalia Yañez. "The main uniqueness of our program is that it is based on a model of competency-based learning, which involves acquiring knowledge and developing skills through experience-based learning , which is why students, starting in their first year of school, participate in creative challenges with relevant players in the local, Latin American, and European industries,” the Director of this program told Vístete Local.
Although it doesn't yet have any graduates who can attest to the quality of the training provided, the program appears solid, combining practice with theory and with a lukewarm, but at least present, business training.
The short course fever
There was a time when they were all the rage. It was an opportunity for those who wanted to get involved in fashion, complement their curricular skills, or simply network. After a first, second, and even third wave of courses of this type, where students learned about a diverse range of topics, the offering gradually became established in this market among those who embraced the demand to study fashion responsibly and with a long-term vision. Reputable institutions like Fotodesign or the Brown School continue to offer a wide range of courses to complement their knowledge. Several of the other short-course providers simply disappeared or reinvented themselves. In truth, this level of offering was not sustainable, nor were the programs that were often intended to be a quick source of income for the schools, rather than courses that effectively and honestly contributed to the students' education. A couple of these schools were even reported to the National Sernac (National Commission for the Promotion of Education) for their poor services.
On the path of those who continue to thrive is Fotodesign, a school specializing in fashion photography. It started in Buenos Aires and now has locations in Colombia, Chile, and Spain. I was the Director of this school in Chile for two years and have nothing but good reviews. Honestly, its graduates speak for themselves. The next generation of fashion photography in Chile has been trained here. For Verónica Jara, current Director of this international franchise, its success is driven by the personalized nature of the courses. “This allows us to support each student in their educational and creative process. In addition to providing them with all the information they need to become photographers, we are very interested in helping them find their photography style, discovering and/or creating their own signature. This is something that can be innate or that can also require years of work and searching; sometimes it's not easy to achieve, and we like having that mission, being able to collaborate in their search.” When asked why her alumni stand out in the local photography market, Verónica responds without hesitation: “At Fotodesign, we stand out by choosing professionals as teachers who are currently active in the market, publishing in media outlets, creating materials, and sharing their experience with the photography, advertising, and fashion industries in Chile. At the same time, we constantly seek to innovate, seeking out new artists to continually offer diverse courses and tools that allow our students to grow professionally and develop their portfolios.”
When looking for a short course, keep in mind that a program of this type is intended to complement knowledge in a specific area, never as a specialization. The same applies to long-term courses: the school must have a connection with the community.
Fashion academy faces a constant challenge: adapting their programs, vision, and activities to the ever-changing industry they aim to recruit professionals. Stay away from any institution that's slow to react, has inflexible curricula, and has set principles. A good place to study will always focus on the student and their needs, and that's key when choosing where you'll take your first steps in fashion.