By Luis Miranda
Some time ago, I had a website that—modestly—managed to showcase several new names in local fashion. Its articles and content featured many designers and brands that, at the time, were timidly known—some not even known at all—and that today are established as labels that form the backbone of Chilean fashion.
Since my time at VisteLaCalle, I considered it my duty as a content editor to provide space and a showcase for local brands, those that weren't (and aren't) featured in the major magazines and media outlets that prioritized (and still prioritize) their commercial commitments over their editorial endeavors. At VLC and later at ModaCL, I took a chance on showcasing the latest developments, the latest in Chilean fashion, those young labels that refreshed the local fashion system, pushing its boundaries and shaping its aesthetic.
For almost two years, my main occupation hasn't been in fashion, but rather in the renewable energy industry. During this journey of change, amid the pandemic, creative burnout, and new interests, I gradually lost track of new Chilean fashion offerings, so my first step in completing this article for Vístete Local was Googling. Unsurprisingly, the lack of results and the fact that VisteLaCalle was the platform that most highlighted the new generations of local brands, written by Andrea Martínez, its editor-in-chief, were the ones that highlighted the new generations of local brands. Then, I turned to my acquaintances in fashion to recommend new names. The only requirement was that they be brands no more than three years old. I came across several offerings I already knew, but also a handful of creatives I hadn't heard of before. It was gratifying to find so many labels with well-defined aesthetics, in some cases, and with styles that were just beginning to emerge, in others. with young people who print on their clothes not only prints, motifs and their logo, but also discourses that, although novice, are renovators and catalysts of what we know as Chilean fashion.
It was difficult to choose just a few, but that's what a content editor's job is all about at the end of the day. Here's a selection of brands that I believe will occupy an important place in fashion conversations, in the closets of local fashionistas, and in our Chilean fashion system.
ENIGMA ( @enigmaestudio_cl )
Enigma is one of those labels that doesn't need fanfare, loudspeakers, or excesses to stand out. This brand, which proudly displays the "Made in Chile" banner on its Instagram account, is committed to creating timeless, high-quality, and highly functional pieces. The brand was born from the interest of Camila Espinoza and Isidora Ruiz-Tagle, the brains behind Enigma, in creating locally, exalting the values of slow fashion. "We wanted to achieve a local approach that would promote fair trade in national fashion, based on slow fashion and working with limited-stock collections. We wanted to create original, high-quality designs," they say. And they succeed in doing so with flying colors.
When asked about the aesthetic they want to give their brand, they respond without hesitation: “Our brand's aesthetic is guided by one fundamental pillar: the concept of the powerful woman, one who works every day to achieve her dreams. For this reason, we strive to adapt our clothing offering to different contexts of use for our users, ensuring that with an Enigma garment, she feels incredible and the best version of herself.”
This results in garments that—while timeless—reveal their designers' fascination with the fashion of the 1960s and 1970s, with stylistic nods to that era throughout their designs.
“For us, a product with the Made in Chile seal tells a story; it has a narrative, a name, and therefore a special value, which makes an Enigma garment unique. It's the story of rescuing an undervalued and neglected industry, an effort to enhance local talent, and creation based on the principles of fair trade, knowing the people behind each of our garments. As a brand, we produce small, limited quantities of stock, thus enhancing the exclusivity of the design as well as the quality of having a garment that's handmade and locally made. By choosing products made in Chile, we strengthen employment, the local economy, national production, and our own, original, and exclusive design.” Isidora and Camila have everything very clear, and we hope this clarity will help them consolidate their offering.
PAGAN ( @paganacl )
The creators of Pagana, Isidora Azolas and Sofía Lillo, define themselves as a "women-led social fashion enterprise." While their flagship product—denim pants in various styles—is relatively simple, it's the upcycling work behind each piece that's complex, attractive, and remarkable about this brand. They produce all their jeans using the upcycling technique, that is, by salvaging old denim pieces that, without Pagana's work, would end up in the trash and increase the number of clothing dumps, so popular these days.
The idea for this venture was born while the partners were pursuing a Master's degree in innovation and entrepreneurship. "We didn't want to create another traditional business focused solely on the economic, but rather to be agents of change and generate a significant impact on a segment of the population," Camila and Sofía tell us. "During this research process, we discovered worrying figures in the fashion industry and wanted to use the circular economy as a fundamental axis when developing a job offer for our collaborators." The brand works with women at risk of social exclusion, who are mothers and homemakers. Pagana offers them flexible work close to their homes. The result is easy-to-wear garments, suitable for any body type, that stand out for their simplicity and authenticity.
Beyond the purely aesthetic, these types of businesses committed to the social and cultural environment and community development are the business models that will triumph in the future. In an industry rife with egos, malpractices, and pettiness, Pagana's brand philosophy enchants us and captivates its customers. "From an economic and social perspective, we believe it is essential to work with fair trade to enhance the talent of the wonderful women who are part of our community. Specifically, we dedicate 22.5% of the sale price of our products to fund their labor."
POPPY SEED ( @poppyseedchile )
Of all the brands mentioned in this article, Poppy Seed has the smallest presence on Instagram. Few followers, infrequent posts, but plenty of color, variety, and accessories.
“Since I was a little girl, I've wanted to create a brand that offers a positive message and contributes to people's self-esteem,” says its creator. The truth is, she succeeds. Her pastel-colored IG, with messages like “You're so Golden” and “Choose Happy,” successfully convey the brand's mood.
Their aesthetic is absolutely eclectic, with something for every taste and occasion. Poppy Seed accessories can be worn to a wedding, the office, or everyday, without a problem. They're colorful, unique, and classic all at the same time. If Serena van der Woodsen and Blair Waldorf had seen their headbands, they would surely have chosen them for their Gossip Girl parties.
For Poppy Seed, the local seal is also very relevant in the context of its business model: “I think it's very important to focus on what's made in Chile, because people often think that cool or trendy things are only available abroad, when the truth is that Chile is growing a lot in the fashion world and there's so much to offer,” she concludes.
CHAIA ( @chaia_oficial )
In short: luxury basics.
Like some of the other brands we've featured in this article, Chaia was born out of an academic experience its creator, Paula, completed. "The idea for CHAIA stemmed from the need to introduce a new consumer system where the values of aesthetics and sustainability came together. After completing a diploma in fashion and consulting, this brand was created in 2019."
Chaia uses textile remnants from the high-end industry to produce her garments, which have a bohemian feel, appealing to a woman eager for travel and the new, and beautifully blending textures, silhouettes, and materials. The range is wide: from a basic t-shirt to an elegant dress, including the perfect pair of pants and animal prints. The brand's charm lies in balancing all these references to produce a mix that is elegant without pretension, challenging yet understated.
Regarding the value she places on local production, Paula notes: "We always wanted to have our own workshop, generate local work, and revive the craft of seamstresses, cutters, and pattern makers. We are a team that deeply believes in collaboration and the virtuosity of each individual."
Attention to detail and craftsmanship is a principle of the brand. “As a designer, it's important to me to be involved in the daily process of each garment, from designing versatile styles, sourcing discarded materials, fittings and finishing, sales, and the shopping experience for our customers—all with the goal of creating a CHAIA wardrobe that's as durable and sustainable as possible, made in Chile.”
NIEVES MARIN ( @nievesmarin )
Nieves Marin is the reworked china dress: nostalgia, flowers, retro vibes, volume, Victoriana, and above all, remarkable. Despite her sometimes maximalist offerings, designer Nieves Marin knows how to balance them. Her work is equally editorial and commercial. Her garments are what we want to see in magazines, but also the piece we want in our closets.
Their repertoire seems inspired by global pop culture, but also by local imagery. This balanced combination of various factors makes for a proposal with both commercial potential and artistic vocation.
Although Nieves has been working in fashion for over three years, she put her brand on hold while she explored management, and only a few years ago decided to dedicate herself full-time to design. Everything takes time, but I personally wish Nieves had dedicated herself to fashion sooner. Her work is too impressive to have been hidden for so long.
